1. Plain weave
The simplest of all patterns is the plain weave. Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin. The plain weave may also have variations including the following:
Rib weave: the filling yarns are larger in diameter than the warp yarns. A rib weave produces fabrics in which fewer yarns per square centimeter are visible on the surface.
Matt Weave or Basket weave: here, two or more yarns are used in both the warp and filling direction. These groups of yarns are woven as one, producing a basket effect.
Interlaced with 1 warp yarn over first filling yarn and 1 warp yarn under next filling yarn forming each repeat. (1/1)
Look for an even repeat of yarns that looks like a checkerboard
Yields fabrics with: highest interlacing most raveling snag resistance most tendency for wrinkling lower tear strength Regular basket weave:
Irregular basket weave:
2. Twill weave:
Twill weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the surface. These may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size. They can be produced in fancy designs.
Interlaced with 2 or 3 warp yarns over and one or 2 warp yarns under respective filling yarns
Diagonal ridge formed left-to-right or right-to-left
fewer interlacing and therefore more yarns per inch
more raveling
more pliable drape and hand
more wrinkle resistance
more resistance to showing soil and soiling
more durability and heavier
tendency to have defined face and back
twill direction defined as left or right hand or variation
angle of twill can vary from 15¤ to 75¤ with 45¤ typicalIdentifying the Weave3. Satin weave
Structuring Process
Interlacing float over 4 or more yarns before a single interlacing (4/1, 7/1 or 11/1)
float in warp direction (satin), floats in filling direction (sateen)
Warp-faced fabric have vertical floats while filling-faced fabrics have horizontal floats
Shiny surface on float side if structured with smooth, shiny yarns
Flat, lustrous, smooth surface
Surface slides easily for linings
Floats result in fewest number of interlacing among plain, rib, twill weaves and therefore yield highest potential yarn count
Long floats (7/1, 11/1) and filament fabrics subject to snagging and poor abrasion resistance
Short floats (4/1, 1/4) and spun fabrics can be tough, compact, durable fabrics with low luster (sateen is formed with spun yarns, usually cotton)
Matt or Basket Weave
Basket weave is the amplification in height and width of plain weave. Two or more yarns have to be lifted or lowered over or under two or more picks for each plain weave point. When the groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular.
This is commonly used for edges in drapery, or as a bottom in very small weave repeats, because the texture is too loose-fitting for big weave repeats; moreover, yarns of different groups can slip, group and overlap, spoiling the appearance. This is why only basket weaves 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4 exist
Satin weave
Satin weave is characterised by floating yarns, used to produce a high luster on one side of the fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass over four or more filling yarns. Low twist and floating of warp yarns, together with fiber content, give a high degree of light reflection. Thanks to the distribution of interlacing points, all emphasized diagonal effects are avoided. As with twill, there is only one interlacing point on each thread and pick of the weave repeat. Satins differ from twills by having a step number different from 1.